Free · Closing costs reserved first
Maximum Purchase Price Calculator
The most you can actually spend, starting from the cash you have rather than your income — with closing costs taken out of that cash first, because they cannot be added to the mortgage.
What you have
- Mortgage
- $612,154
- Payment
- $3,385
- Comfortable
- $576,534
- GDS / TDS
- 39% / 44%
Why this is lower than you expected
Of your $120,000, $14,724 has to go to closing costs — land transfer tax, the lawyer, title insurance. That leaves $105,276 for the down payment, not the whole amount.
A calculator that skips that step would have told you $714,520 — $13,763 higher, and a price you could not complete a purchase at. Closing costs cannot be added to a mortgage.
No condo fee entered, so this is priced as a freehold. If you are shopping condos, add the fee — half of it counts against your ratios and it lowers the ceiling materially.
This is the ceiling the published rules produce. A lender applies its own overlays on top, and they differ enough that the same file gets different answers — which is what a broker is for.
Talk to a brokerThree prices, and only one of them is real
Comfortable holds housing to 32% of income and total debt to 36%. Your maximum is what a lender approves at 39% and 44%. The third is what you get by pretending closing costs do not exist.
Where your $120,000 goes
These two add up to the money you already have — the closing costs come out of it, not on top of it. Total cash the purchase needs: $120,000.
What would raise your ceiling
Each one is the whole calculation run again with a single change. Where a lever is capped or unavailable, it says so rather than showing a number without explanation.
Raises the down payment and the closing-cost reserve together, which is why it buys less than ten thousand dollars of price — new ceiling $709,934
Capped almost immediately: GDS becomes the binding ratio, so the room this frees cannot all be used. Clearing a car loan or a card frees ratio room directly, and revolving balances count at 3% whether or not you pay them off
Not available here: with less than 20% down the mortgage is insured, and 30 years is limited to first-time buyers and new builds. Lowers the qualifying payment, so the same income carries a larger mortgage — at more interest over the life of it
Assumes they bring no additional debt. Someone arriving with a car loan brings less room than their income suggests — new ceiling $995,385
Your ceiling
- Maximum purchase price
- $700,757
- What is limiting youMore income or less debt raises this; more cash would not
- Your income
- Mortgage at that priceIncludes $16,673 of insurance premium added to the loan
- $612,154
- Payment at your contract rateQualified on $4,096.65 at the stress-tested rate
- $3,384.71
- GDS / TDS at the ceilingAgainst the 39% and 44% insured limits
- 38.9% / 44.0%
Where your cash goes
- Cash you have
- $120,000
- Reserved for closingLand transfer tax, legal fees, title insurance, inspection and any PST on the insurance premium
- $14,724
- Left for the down payment15.0% of the maximum price
- $105,276
- Total cash the purchase needsWhich is the cash you already have — closing costs came out of it, not on top of it
- $120,000
What reserving costs you
- Ceiling ignoring closing costsThe figure most calculators show
- $714,520
- Ceiling you can actually close at
- $700,757
- The differenceNot a fee — it is the price you cannot afford once the cash for closing is set aside
- $13,763
Comfortable against maximum
- Comfortable — 32% GDS, 36% TDSLeaves real room on both ratios, not just the first one
- $576,534
- Maximum — 39% GDS, 44% TDSWhat a lender approves, which is not the same as what is comfortable to carry
- $700,757
- The gapWhere between the two you shop is the actual decision this page exists to inform
- $124,223
What would raise the ceiling
- Another $10,000 of cashRaises the down payment and the closing-cost reserve together, which is why it buys less than ten thousand dollars of price — new ceiling $709,934
- +$9,177
- $200 less monthly debtCapped almost immediately: GDS becomes the binding ratio, so the room this frees cannot all be used. Clearing a car loan or a card frees ratio room directly, and revolving balances count at 3% whether or not you pay them off
- +$494
- A 30-year amortizationNot available here: with less than 20% down the mortgage is insured, and 30 years is limited to first-time buyers and new builds. Lowers the qualifying payment, so the same income carries a larger mortgage — at more interest over the life of it
- +$34,758
- A co-applicant with 50% more incomeAssumes they bring no additional debt. Someone arriving with a car loan brings less room than their income suggests — new ceiling $995,385
- +$294,628
Closing costs are estimated with the same engine as our closing costs calculator and reserved out of your cash before anything is solved, because they cannot be added to a mortgage. Qualification runs at the stress-tested rate — the greater of your rate plus two points and the 5.25% floor — against 39% GDS and 44% TDS. Property tax is estimated from your city’s mill rate applied to an assessed value below market price, not from a specific home’s actual bill, and it is the softest figure here. The insurance premium is added to the mortgage; the PST on it, where applicable, is cash and is inside the reserve. This is a ceiling under the published rules, not an approval — individual lenders apply their own overlays, and credit and how your income is documented still have to support it.
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What the Maximum Purchase Price Calculator does
Most affordability tools start from your income. This one starts where house-hunting usually starts — with a sum of money in the bank — and finds the highest price that money and your income can jointly support.
The difference that matters is what it does with closing costs. Land transfer tax, legal fees and title insurance are due in cash and cannot be added to the mortgage, and they come out of the same account as your down payment rather than from somewhere else. This calculator sets them aside first, so the number it gives you is one you could actually complete a purchase at.
- Your ceiling, with closing costs taken out of your cash before anything is solved
- Which constraint is actually binding — the cash or the income — and what that means
- A comfortable ceiling alongside the maximum, with both ratios eased, not just one
- What the closing-cost reserve costs you in purchase price, stated plainly
- Four levers priced in dollars, including which ones are capped and why
Two ceilings, and only one of them is about income
There are two independent limits here and your real ceiling is the lower of them. Your cash sets one, through the tiered minimum down payment: 5% on the first $500,000, 10% from there to $1.5 million, and 20% above that, where insurance is unavailable. This limit does not move however much you earn.
Your income sets the other, through the debt service ratios — and those are run at the stress-tested rate, the greater of your contract rate plus two points and the 5.25% floor, not the rate you would actually pay. This limit does not move however much you have saved.
Knowing which one binds tells you what to do next, and the two answers point in opposite directions. If your cash is the constraint, saving more raises your ceiling and a raise does nothing. If your income is the constraint, the reverse. The page names it rather than leaving you to work it out.
- Cash sets a ceiling through the tiered minimum down payment rule
- Income sets a ceiling through GDS and TDS at the stress-tested rate
- Your real maximum is the lower of the two, always
- The binding one tells you which lever is worth pulling
- Pulling the other lever changes nothing at all
Why closing costs come out of your down payment
A mortgage can absorb the CMHC premium. It cannot absorb your land transfer tax, your lawyer, your title insurance or your home inspection. Those are cash, due on or before closing day, and for almost every buyer they come from the same savings the down payment comes from.
So a buyer with $120,000 does not have $120,000 for a down payment. They have $120,000 minus whatever closing costs turn out to be — and in Ontario, on a purchase in the high six figures, that is comfortably five figures. Reserving it first is the difference between a ceiling you can act on and one that falls apart at the lawyer's office.
That reserve is genuinely circular: the price sets the closing costs, the closing costs set the down payment, and the down payment sets the price. This page solves that loop properly rather than estimating once and moving on, which is why the amount it reserves and the amount it shows you are the same number.
- The insurance premium can be added to the mortgage; closing costs cannot
- They are funded from the same account as the down payment, not from elsewhere
- Land transfer tax is the largest of them, and Toronto charges it twice
- First-time-buyer rebates reduce the reserve and raise your ceiling
- The reserve is solved to a fixed point, so one figure appears throughout
Comfortable is not the same as approved
Lenders will let housing costs reach 39% of gross income and total debts 44%. Sitting at both limits is an approval, not a plan — it leaves nothing for the furnace, the assessment, the year the property tax jumps, or simply wanting to do something other than own a house.
The comfortable figure on this page eases both ratios together, to 32% and 36%. Easing only the housing ratio, as calculators generally do, quietly leaves the total-debt limit at 44% — and once monthly debts reach around $1,500 that limit binds both calculations and the comfortable price becomes identical to the maximum. The buyer most in need of the distinction is precisely the one who stops being shown it.
The gap between the two figures is the actual decision. Neither number is the right answer on its own; where you shop between them is a judgement about your own life that no calculator can make.
- A lender approves to 39% housing and 44% total debt
- Comfortable here means 32% and 36% — both eased, deliberately
- Easing only the housing ratio collapses the two figures for indebted buyers
- The gap is the decision; the maximum is only where the decision ends
What actually moves your ceiling
The levers table reruns the whole calculation with one thing changed, so every figure is in dollars of purchase price rather than in vague encouragement.
Some of what it shows is counter-intuitive. Another $10,000 of cash buys less than $10,000 of price, because a larger purchase carries larger closing costs and the reserve grows with it. Clearing $200 a month of debt can be worth almost nothing if you are simultaneously at the housing-cost limit — the room it frees has nowhere to go. The page says so when it happens, because a bare "+$494" with no explanation reads like a broken calculator rather than like two constraints binding at once.
A 30-year amortization is the largest single lever for most buyers, and it is also the one most often unavailable: with less than 20% down the mortgage must be insured, and 30-year insured amortizations are limited to first-time buyers and new builds. The page checks that before offering it.
- More cash raises the ceiling by less than the cash added
- Clearing debt does nothing if the housing ratio is already the constraint
- A longer amortization is the biggest lever, when you are eligible for it
- A co-applicant usually moves it most, assuming they bring no debt of their own
- Every figure is a full recalculation, not an approximation
Using your results well
Shop below the maximum. The gap between comfortable and maximum exists so you can choose a point in it deliberately rather than discovering the top of your range from a lender and treating it as a target.
Then check the assumptions that move the answer most. Property tax here is estimated from your city's mill rate applied to an assessed value that sits below market price — it is the softest input on the page and a high-tax property will lower your ceiling. If you are shopping condos, enter the fee: half of it counts against your ratios, and leaving it out overstates what you can spend.
And get a real pre-approval before you write an offer. This calculator does not know your credit score, how your income is documented, or the overlays a particular lender applies on top of the published rules. It gives you a number to shop under, which is a different thing from a number you have been approved for.
- Decide where between comfortable and maximum you actually want to be
- Enter the condo fee if you are shopping condos — omitting it inflates the ceiling
- Treat the property tax estimate as the softest figure on the page
- Confirm the closing-cost reserve against a real quote once you have a target price
- Get a pre-approval before making an offer anywhere near the top
Common questions
How much house can I buy with my down payment?
It depends on your income as much as your cash. This calculator works out the ceiling each one supports separately and reports the lower of the two, naming which is binding. It also takes closing costs out of your cash first, since they cannot be added to the mortgage — so the price it gives you is one you could actually close at.
Why does the calculator take money off my down payment before starting?
Because land transfer tax, legal fees, title insurance and an inspection are due in cash and come from the same savings as your down payment. A buyer with $120,000 does not have $120,000 to put down. Reserving those costs first is what separates a ceiling you can act on from one that collapses at the lawyer's office.
Why does adding $10,000 of cash raise my price by less than $10,000?
Because a larger purchase carries larger closing costs, so part of the extra cash goes straight into a bigger reserve — and because the mortgage that cash unlocks still has to pass the income ratios. The lever table shows the real figure for your own numbers rather than assuming a dollar of cash buys a dollar of price.
What is the difference between the comfortable price and the maximum?
The maximum is what a lender will approve — up to 39% of gross income on housing and 44% on total debts. The comfortable figure eases both to 32% and 36%, leaving room for the costs that arrive whether or not you planned for them. Both ratios are eased together on purpose: lowering only the housing one lets the total-debt limit bind instead, which makes the two figures identical for anyone carrying real debt.
Is my down payment or my income more likely to be the limit?
Buyers with strong income and modest savings are usually cash-limited; buyers with significant savings and existing debts are usually income-limited. Rather than generalising, the calculator names which one binds on your specific numbers — which tells you whether saving more or earning more is the lever worth pulling.
Why is clearing my debt worth so little on my numbers?
Because you are probably at the housing-cost limit as well. Clearing debt frees room under the total-debt ratio, but if the housing ratio is already at its maximum that freed room has nowhere to go. The page flags this when it happens, since a very small figure with no explanation looks like an error rather than like two constraints binding at once.
Can I get a 30-year amortization to raise my maximum?
Only if the mortgage is uninsured — 20% or more down — or you are a first-time buyer or buying new construction. With less than 20% down the mortgage must be insured, and insured amortizations are capped at 25 years outside those exceptions. The calculator checks your situation before offering it as a lever.
Next step
Shop under this number, not up to it.
This is the ceiling the published rules produce. A real pre-approval tests it against your documents, your credit and one lender’s overlays — and lenders differ enough that the same file genuinely gets different answers. Mortgage Directory lists licensed brokers across Canada — placement is never sold, and an enquiry goes to one broker only.
